Rethymnon is often the city travellers discover after Chania and wish they'd chosen first.
The old town of Rethymnon is more compact and less photogenic than Chania — and that's precisely what makes it feel more genuine. The Venetian lanes are narrower, the facades less restored, and you still encounter families who have lived there for generations, with their cats, flower pots and laundry at the windows.
The Fortezza is one of the best-preserved fortresses in the eastern Mediterranean. Built by the Venetians in the 16th century to resist the Ottomans — unsuccessfully, as it fell in 1646 — it offers 360° views over the old town, the sea and the inland hills. Allow 90 minutes to walk it properly.
The Turkish lighthouse and the old harbour are less imposing than Chania's, but the atmosphere is different: fewer tourists, more local fishermen, and tavernas that still serve fresh fish at reasonable prices. The streets around Arkadiou retain genuine commercial life: grocers, bakers, artisan workshops.
Something guides often miss: Rethymnon has one of Crete's finest urban beaches, 12km long, directly accessible from the town centre. No car needed to swim.
What to know
- More authentic and cheaper than Chania
- Remarkably well-preserved Fortezza
- Long beach right in town
- Good central position on the island
- Old town less spectacular than Chania
- Heavy traffic on the main road
- Fewer high-end restaurants
- Limited nightlife outside peak season
Practical tip
Rethymnon makes an ideal central base for exploring both the west (Chania, Balos) and the centre (Knossos) without excessive driving.
📍 Where is Rethymnon Old Town
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