Forget Indonesia. Cretan Bali is a former fishing village clinging to the hillside, hiding a string of intimate coves.
Tucked at the head of a sheltered bay midway between Heraklion and Rethymnon, Bali means leaving the fast road to plunge towards the sea. The village tiers down in steep terraces, offering plunging views over the Mediterranean at every bend. Unlike the big north-coast resorts, Bali has kept something of a fishing village — even if the reality is more complicated.
Bali's great advantage lies in its topography: four successive small bays — Livadi, Varkotopos, Limani, Karavostasis — naturally protected from the prevailing winds. The water is almost always Olympically calm, warm and clear, perfect for snorkelling along the rocks. The charm of the small central harbour (Limani), with its colourful boats and terrace tavernas, is undeniable.
Tourist expansion has been chaotic. Concrete sprawling over the hills spoils the postcard a little. In summer, the narrowness of the coves quickly creates a feeling of overcrowding. Parking near the lower beaches is a hairpin nightmare, and the internal roads are particularly steep.
In June or September, to enjoy the coves without feeling you're sharing your towel with the neighbour. Park right at the top by the first beach and take the little tourist train, or walk down to Karavostasis — often the most charming and least crowded.
What to know
- Coves naturally sheltered from the wind
- Flat, transparent water guaranteed
- Excellent snorkelling spot
- Authentic charm of Limani harbour
- Excessive, visible property development
- High summer density in the narrow coves
- Very steep internal roads, hard to park
- Loses its soul at peak summer
Practical tip
Park at the top and walk (or take the little train) down to Karavostasis, the last and most charming of the coves. For snorkelling, follow the rocks east of Limani for clear water and varied seabeds.
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