
Half an hour from Rethymno, a village hung above a green valley, famous for its springs: living water running everywhere, under huge plane trees, and Crete's finest cool-shade tavernas.
Beneath the lower village springs one of Crete's strongest water sources: it bursts from the mossy rock, tumbles in cascades under huge plane trees and feeds a run of crystal pools. It's so abundant that it supplies part of Rethymno's drinking water. Here you find coolness even at the height of summer — 8 to 10 degrees below the coast — and a soothing roar of water that drowns out everything else. It's the island's most refreshing setting.

Climb into the upper village and you walk on two thousand years of history: Argyroupoli sits on the site of Lappa, a powerful Greco-Roman city that Augustus had rebuilt. Among the whitewashed houses with blue doors and the flower-filled lanes hide a Roman mosaic, rock-cut tombs and a fine church. The village has kept its soul: a few elders at the kafenío, cats in the sun, a plunging view over the green valley — the Crete of before the tour buses.

Around the springs, a handful of family tavernas have set their tables under the plane trees, right at the water's edge — some serve trout raised in the running water just beside you. You eat simple, generous Cretan cooking in a cool draught and a setting of streaming greenery. It's one of Crete's loveliest lunch stops, and reason number one to make the detour: come up in the morning, visit the upper village, then head back down for a cool lunch.

In the hinterland of Rethymno, in western Crete, about 27 km (30 minutes) on a paved road. Easy to reach by car, with parking at the entrance to the lower village, near the springs. No 4×4 or hard walk.
The springs and their cascades under the plane trees (the lower village), the upper village built on the ancient city of Lappa with its Roman mosaic, rock-cut tombs, white lanes and church, and the tavernas set at the water's edge. Reckon on a half-day, lunch included.
The water is very cold and the pools shallow: you dip your feet more than really swim, and some corners belong to the tavernas. It's above all a place of coolness and shaded lunch, not a river beach. For swimming, nearby Lake Kournas is better suited.
Lake Kournas (swimming, pedalos), Arkadi Monastery, and the potters' village of Margarites are all within 40 minutes. Argyroupoli makes a perfect stop on a day in the Rethymno hinterland.
Our generator places the village and its lunch break at the right point of your western trip, between beaches and gorges.
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