The track is 8 kilometres of stones and dust. You arrive at the car park with the windscreen white with dust and a thirst. The lagoon is down there — 25 minutes on foot to reach it.
What we learned
Our first visit, we arrived at 10:30am. The lagoon was there, the water had exactly that colour. But the beach was packed, the path jammed in both directions. We spent an hour waiting for it to clear. The following year, we left at dawn.
"Next time we come before everyone else." — my eldest daughter, on the way back.
↓ What this changes in practice for planning your day.
The track from Kastelli sets the tone early: 8 kilometres of gravel, hairpin bends with no barriers, and dust that gets into everything. Rental cars scraping their undersides on rocks, tourists turning back at the first switchback. Those who push on arrive at the car park with a mix of relief and apprehension.
Then comes the descent. A well-marked but steep path, 20 minutes in full sun if you arrive at midday. At the bottom, the landscape changes abruptly. The water shifts from deep blue to turquoise within a few metres. The sand is genuinely pink — not the candy-coloured version you see on retouched Instagram photos, but a soft, natural pink born from coral and crushed shells. The lagoon is shallow and warm; you can wade to the small islet without water reaching your knees.
The downside: in July and August, you won't have it to yourself. Ferries from Kissamos unload their groups from 10am onwards. Sun-loungers pack the sandbar. The bar perched on the hill serves cocktails at €12. An overcrowded Balos feels less like a wild beach than a water park with a view.
The fix is straightforward: arrive before 9am or after 5pm. In May, June or September, visitor numbers drop by a factor of ten. Late afternoon light turns the water to liquid gold. That's when Balos delivers on its promise.
My photos
© Crète Immersion
What to know
- Water colours unmatched in the Mediterranean
- Lagoon walkable on foot
- Panoramic viewpoint from the car park
- Rough track (car bodywork often scratched)
- Very crowded in peak season
- No shade on the descent
- Few facilities on site
Practical tip
Leave before 8:30am, bring water and closed shoes for the descent. The return ferry from Kissamos skips the track — just arrange a taxi back to your car.
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