
Half an hour from Rethymno, the village of Cretan pottery: workshops where clay has been thrown and painted for a thousand years, in flower-filled lanes hung above the valley.
Since Byzantine times, Margarites has lived off clay. In the village workshops you can still watch a potter centre the clay and raise a jar on the wheel, then follow a demonstration of both worlds: the old wood-fired kiln and the more modern approach. Places like Tsikalario (workshop, exhibition and small museum) tell the whole process, with guides who slip naturally from Greek to French, English and German. It's one of the few places in Crete where the craft is still handed down, for real.

Margarites's historic speciality is the pithos: the huge Cretan jar for oil, wine and grain, once exported across the Mediterranean. Today the workshops also turn out mugs, bowls, colourful jugs and little oil cruets decorated with the olive sprig — pretty, useful and often surprisingly cheap. An insider tip: buy straight from the potter rather than in a seaside shop, and mind the weight in your suitcase before you get carried away. A piece from Margarites is the finest Cretan souvenir there is.

Beyond the workshops, Margarites is a real stone village clinging to its hill: cobbled lanes overflowing with flowers, small shaded squares, Byzantine churches and a view plunging over the olive groves. You wander with a coffee in hand, between two shops, before heading back down. Fifteen minutes away lie the archaeological site of Eleftherna with its fine museum, and Arkadi Monastery — enough for a superb day in the Rethymno hinterland.

In the hinterland of Rethymno, in western Crete, about 27 km (30 minutes) on a paved road. Easy to reach by car; you park at the edge of the village, which is explored on foot. It's a short detour from the north coast.
Yes, that's the whole point of the village. Several workshops offer wheel demonstrations and explain both the traditional wood-fired kiln and modern methods. Places like Tsikalario (workshop, exhibition and small museum) welcome visitors, often with multilingual guides.
Hand-made ceramics: mugs, bowls, colourful jugs, little oil cruets decorated with the olive sprig, and of course smaller versions of the pithos, the great Cretan jar. It's authentic and often cheap — just mind the weight and fragility for the trip home.
The ancient city of Eleftherna with its archaeological museum, Arkadi Monastery (a landmark of Cretan memory) and the spring village of Argyroupoli are all within 30 minutes. Enough for a fine day in the Rethymno hinterland.
Our generator places the village and its pottery workshop at the right point of your western trip, between beaches, monastery and gorges.
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