Cretan raki (tsikoudia) and the kazani feasts

From grape pomace to the cauldron

It all starts with the grape harvest, from late summer into early autumn. Once the grapes are pressed for wine, what's left is the pomace — in Greek strafyla: the skins, pulp, pips and stems. Nothing is wasted: this pomace ferments in barrels for several weeks (up to around forty days), then goes to distillation.

Distilling happens in a copper still, the kazani, heated over a wood fire. In most mountain villages there's a cauldron and a few men licensed to distil; each family brings its barrels of pomace and leaves with its share of raki. It's this village logistics — at once artisanal and regulated — that gives rise to the feast.

The night of the kazani

The rakokázana (also called kazanéma) isn't a show: it's a vigil. While the still slowly drips, a grill goes over the embers of the hearth, meat is cooked, out come the bread, olives and cheese. The Cretan lyra accompanies the mantinades — those improvised, sung couplets — and the dancing often lasts until the small hours.

It's a living tradition, but a discreet one: around 180 stills were still active in 2024 (out of some 480 registered). The regions where the kazani culture remains strongest: Kissamos and Apokoronas in the west, Mylopotamos and Amari in the centre, Archanes near Heraklion, Viannos in the southeast.

Where and how to taste it, honestly

There's no official calendar or ticketing: a rakokázana comes together according to how ready the pomace is and the mood of the village. Three reliable ways in for a visitor. First, the agritourism farms that own their own still and open the distilling to their guests in season — the surest route. Then, the village tavernas in October-November, where they'll happily tell you where the local kazani is firing up. Finally, the invitation: up in the mountains at this time of year, a passing stranger often gets waved over for a toast.

Two instincts. First: follow the late-afternoon smoke, it gives away a working kazani. Second, cultural: raki that's offered isn't paid for and isn't lightly refused — a small shared glass, a « στην υγειά μας » (to our health), and you're one of the village for the evening.

Raki, tsikoudia, tsipouro, ouzo: don't mix them up

On the label and at the bar, the words tangle. In Crete, tsikoudia and raki are used interchangeably for the same pomace spirit, with no anise. Careful: Turkish rakı is aniseed-flavoured — not the same drink. Ouzo, Greek but different, is always anise-scented. Mainland tsipouro is a close cousin of raki (grape pomace), sometimes with anise, often a touch stronger (around 42% versus 36% for tsikoudia).

One last to know: rakómelo, raki sweetened with honey and spices (cinnamon, cardamom), served warm in winter — the quintessential Cretan remedy against cold and a sore throat.

Frequently asked questions