◈ Far east · Lasithi

Sitia & the end of Crete

Where the road slows down, Crete becomes another island: a harbour town living at its own pace, Europe's largest palm forest, a hidden waterfall, turquoise coves with no one around. The guide to the far east, far from the crowds.

Mood

Authentic

The wonder

Vai

Hidden gem

Papadiokampos

The end of Crete has to be earned — and it rewards every kilometre.

Sitia is the last real town in the east: an amphitheatre of white houses above a fishing harbour, a long palm-lined promenade, a Venetian fortress (the Kazarma) watching over the bay. No giant resorts, no coaches by the hundred — a Cretan town that lives for itself first, and welcomes you without fuss.

Around it, the east unfurls its wonders along a road that hugs an ever-wilder coast: the palm forest of Vai, the fortified monastery of Toplou, the Richtis waterfall, the turquoise coves of Papadiokampos, and far to the south the Minoan palace of Kato Zakros. Most are within an hour of Sitia.

Take your time: no one here is in a hurry.

La promenade de Sitia bordée de palmiers, avec l'amphithéâtre de maisons blanches au-dessus du port, Crète — Sitia's promenade and its amphitheatre of white houses above the harbour.

Sitia, the town that takes its time

In the evening, all of Sitia comes down to the promenade: terraces at the water's edge, boats coming in, façades lighting up above the harbour. Two stepped lanes up lies the old town with its coloured houses, crowned by the Kazarma fortress. An ideal, unpretentious base for exploring the east.

The wild east in pictures

From the palm forest of Vai to the coves of Papadiokampos and the Richtis waterfall.

Vai beach from the viewpoint: palm forest, golden sand and turquoise bay, far east of Crete — Vai: Europe's largest palm forest fringes a crescent of golden sand — the postcard of the far east.

The Theophrastus palm forest of Vai against a blue sky, east Crete — Beneath Vai's Theophrastus palms — the only ones to grow as a forest in Europe.

Turquoise cove and winding road on the east coast near Papadiokampos, Sitia, Crete — The turquoise coves of Papadiokampos, on the coast road east of Sitia.

Bay of clear turquoise water fringed by arid hills near Papadiokampos, east Crete — Water of an unreal blue, and almost no one: the luxury of the far east.

Wild sandy beach with dunes and crystal-clear water in the far east of Crete near Sitia — Sand, dunes and mountains: the wild beaches at the end of the island.

Minoan wall remains by the blue sea at Papadiokampos, near Sitia, Crete — At Papadiokampos, Minoan remains surface right at the water's edge.

The Richtis waterfall falling into a pool at the bottom of a green gorge, east Crete — The Richtis waterfall, deep in a green gorge between Sitia and Agios Nikolaos.

Taverna terrace on the rocks by a blue sea near Sitia, Crete — Lunch at the water's edge, on the rocky coast of Sitia.

The wonders of the far east

Almost everything is within an hour of Sitia.

Unmissable24 km

The palm forest of Vai

Europe's largest palm forest (about 5,000 Theophrastus palms) fringes a golden-sand beach. Magical early in the morning, mobbed by midday in summer.

History15 km

Toplou monastery

A 15th-century fortress-monastery, isolated in an almost lunar landscape on the road to Vai. You can taste the wine, raki and olive oil produced on site.

Nature~30 km

The Richtis waterfall

A 20 m fall deep in a green gorge, at the end of a roughly 3 km trail from Exo Mouliana to Richtis beach. One of Crete's most refreshing hikes.

Hidden gem~12 km

Papadiokampos

Coves of turquoise water and, right by the sea, a little-known Minoan site. Few people, a raw backdrop of hills and pebbles — the best-kept secret of the east coast.

Minoan site~45 km

Kato Zakros

At the very end, Crete's fourth Minoan palace, facing a wild bay — reached through the 'Gorge of the Dead' with its burial caves.

Beaches~50 km

Xerokambos

In the far southeast, a string of deserted beaches with crystal-clear water, far from everything. For those who really want to be alone.

Our tips

A car, really

The east is vast and thinly served: a car is essential. Fill up in Sitia — filling stations thin out beyond it.

Vai early

In summer, reach Vai before 10am: the palm grove and beach fill fast with the coaches.

Richtis in the cool

Do the Richtis gorge in the morning; closed shoes, water, and plan the return along the same trail.

Off-season

May-June and September-October: the east is even lovelier and almost deserted. Some tavernas close in winter.

Frequently asked questions

What is there to do in Sitia and eastern Crete?

The palm forest of Vai, Toplou monastery, the Richtis waterfall and gorge, the coves of Papadiokampos, the Minoan palace of Kato Zakros, the wild beaches of Xerokambos — and Sitia itself, its harbour, promenade and Kazarma fortress.

How much time for the far east?

At least two days: one for Sitia, Toplou and Vai, another for Richtis, Papadiokampos and Kato Zakros. Based in Sitia, it's easy to range out.

Is Vai worth the trip?

Yes, it's Europe's only large palm forest and one of the most singular beaches in Greece. Come early morning or off-season to avoid the midday crowds.

How do you get to Sitia?

By car from Agios Nikolaos (about 1h along the coast) or Heraklion (2h30). Sitia also has a small airport and a ferry port serving the Cyclades and the Dodecanese.

Is the east doable without a car?

Hardly: buses serve Sitia and Vai in summer, but Richtis, Papadiokampos, Toplou and Kato Zakros need a car. That's the price of the quiet.

Continue west

The rest of the east, between Sitia and the Gulf of Mirabello.

Guide

Agios Nikolaos: everything to do around →

Village & sea

Mochlos: the fishing village and its Minoan islet →

Minoan town

Gournia: the 'Minoan Pompeii' →

Beaches

The most beautiful beaches in Crete →