
A harbour town set on Crete's most beautiful gulf, and within 30 minutes: a golden beach, an island fortress, mountain villages and two ancient cities. Here's the complete guide to exploring the east of the island.
Base for the East
Ideal
Star beach
Voulisma
Offshore
Spinalonga
If you had to pick just one base for eastern Crete, this would be it.
Agios Nikolaos holds a rare position: at the head of the Gulf of Mirabello, on the hinge between sea and mountains. Within half an hour you go from a turquoise beach to a Venetian leper colony, from a village of craftspeople to a Dorian city on a hilltop. The town itself — its bottomless lake, its harbour, its lanes — deserves a whole evening (we give it its own guide).
But it's what's around that makes it. This page lists, in the order you discover them, the beaches, sites and villages that make this one of the most complete corners of the island — most just a few kilometres away, all reachable by car from town.
Let's start with what draws everyone here: the sea.
Lake Voulismeni, linked to the sea by a channel, is the beating heart of Agios Nikolaos: terraces at the water's edge, a red cliff behind, colourful boats. Around it, the chic marina; and, two lanes up, the authentic old town. The ideal base to sleep, dine and set out from.
The immersive town guide →From the golden sand of Istron to the quiet coves of the gulf.

12 km southeast of town, on the Istron road, Voulisma is the gulf's postcard: a crescent of blond sand, shallow water shifting from turquoise to deep blue within a few metres, a backdrop of hills. Sunbeds and umbrellas (up to ~€30 a set in high season), water sports, a taverna and free parking along the road.
Come before 10:30am in summer for a front-row spot — or off-season (June, September) for the same water without the crowds.



1 km south of the centre, fed by a freshwater river: shallow, shaded by eucalyptus, perfect for families.
The town's own beaches: walk there between two cafés for a quick swim facing the gulf.
Around Voulisma, several little inlets (Karavostasi, Chartalami) offer the same water, wilder and quieter.
Over by Elounda, a wild peninsula of crystal water — hire a kayak here and paddle to Spinalonga.
From the shore to ancient cities, everything is within 30 minutes.
The Venetian island fortress turned leper colony, opposite the chic village of Elounda. Board at Plaka, Elounda or from the port of Agios Nikolaos.
The Spinalonga guide →One of Crete's loveliest villages: whitewashed lanes, craftspeople, tavernas. 1 km away, the Byzantine church of Panagia Kera holds 13th-century frescoes among the finest on the island.
The village of Kritsa →Above Kritsa, the ruins of a Dorian city (7th-3rd c. BC) drape over two hills, with a plunging view over the gulf to Agios Nikolaos. Spectacular and rarely busy.
The Lato guide →The best-preserved Minoan town in Crete: cobbled lanes, houses, a small palace — not an isolated palace, but a real Bronze Age town on a hillside facing the sea.
The Gournia guide →A peaceful fishing village facing a Minoan islet, at the east of the gulf: tavernas at the water's edge, clear water, a quiet end of the world.
The village of Mochlos →Climbing inland, the Lasithi plateau and its windmills, and the Dikteon cave where, legend says, Zeus was born. A cool, green escape far from the coast.
The town is walkable, but everything around it needs a car. The distances are short, the roads beautiful.
In summer the star beach fills by mid-morning. First swim before 10:30am, or off-season.
Lato and Gournia are open-air, with no shade: visit in the cool, with water and a hat.
The best window: warm sea, open sites, lively terraces, but without the August crush.
Lake Voulismeni and the harbour, the old town and its lanes, the small archaeological museum, a Spinalonga excursion, the village of Kritsa and the church of Panagia Kera, or the ancient sites of Lato and Gournia. The area is far more than its beaches.
Voulisma (Golden Beach), 12 km along the Istron road: golden sand, shallow turquoise water. For more calm, try Almyros south of town or the Istron coves around Voulisma.
Two to three days let you enjoy the town, one or two beaches, a Spinalonga/Elounda day and a Kritsa/Lato outing. It's also an excellent base to explore all of eastern Crete over a week.
Boats leave from the port of Agios Nikolaos (40-60 min, often as a mini-cruise), but the fastest way is to drive to Plaka or Elounda (11 km) and board there: a 5-20 minute crossing.
Yes, the best. Within an hour: Spinalonga, Elounda, Voulisma, Kritsa, Lato, Gournia, Mochlos, the Lasithi plateau and, further out, Sitia and the palm forest of Vai.
Plan
Explore
Nature & adventure
Gorges & waterfalls›Things to do›Activities & tours›Boat cruises›Santorini day trip›Culture & history
Knossos (tickets)›Spinalonga›Lato (Dorian city)›Gournia (Minoan town)›Battle of Crete›Authentic villages›Living here