The Cretan south in all its rugged authenticity. Plakias never tried to please mass tourism, and that's exactly what makes it magnetic.
Crossing the dramatic Kourtaliotiko Gorge to reach Plakias is an experience in itself. You leave imposing mountains behind and emerge onto a vast bay open to the Libyan Sea, swept by southerly winds. The arrival creates an end-of-the-world feeling that few places in Crete can match.
Here, you can breathe. The long beach of sand and small pebbles offers a rare sense of open space for Crete. The mood is relaxed, favoured by surfers and hikers. The water is often cooler and choppier than on the north coast, lending a wild, exhilarating edge. The Imbros Gorge, 20km away, is less known than Samaria and almost as impressive.
The wind is often very strong. Gusts can make sunbathing impossible on some days. The village itself is fairly functional and lacks Venetian architectural charm. And the water, colder and rougher, doesn't suit young children or inexperienced swimmers.
In spring, to enjoy mild temperatures and the surrounding hikes. Explore the neighbouring coves of Damnoni or Ammoudi, often sheltered from the wind, when the great bay of Plakias is too rough. A scooter rented locally opens up an extraordinary network of small coastal roads.
What to know
- Vast space and rare freedom for Crete
- Laid-back, sporty atmosphere
- Excellent fish tavernas by the water
- Ideal base for the Imbros Gorge
- Wind often strong and unpredictable
- Lacks architectural charm
- Water sometimes cold and rough
- Not well suited to families with young children
Practical tip
Explore the coves of Damnoni and Ammoudi by scooter when the main bay is too windy. Do the Imbros Gorge in the morning, before the heat — allow 3h round trip.
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